Salta? Ah, Salta la Linda! Salta the Fair! You'll hear this exchange many a time during your trip around Argentina. Absolutely everyone in Argentina, whether they've been to this vibrant northern city or not, knows that Salta is simply beautiful. Yet in truth this moniker originates in a misunderstanding of the provincial capital's indigenous name, whose real roots are unknown. Salta and its surrounding province certainly are extremely handsome, though. The city has a fantastic location up against the Andean foothills and boasts a fine set of eclectic yet harmonious architecture. The modern capital is a bustling, fast-growing metropolis, and serves as the main tourist centre of the whole NOA – as the Argentine northwest (Noroeste Argentina) is commonly called.
Expanding fast across the fertile Lerma valley (its raison d'etre in pioneering times), this jewel of a town retains its wonderful colonial centre, including some striking Hispanic buildings such as the Cabildo (colonial city hall), with its elegant arches and whitewashed walls. This is complemented by the gaudy Cathedral across the luxuriant Plaza 9 de Julio – the city's hub, complete with cafés, assorted stores and a fabulous municipal theatre. Renovated in 2008, the latter is home to one of South America's most illustrious symphonic orchestras (Orquesta Sinfonica de Salta). On opposite sides of the plaza are two contrasting museums: the MAAM (Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montana) , founded to display three naturally mummified Inca children, sacrificed hundreds of years ago on the Andean peaks to the west; and the city's museum of contemporary art (MAC), showcasing local artists of the highest caliber.
A short hop away is another of Salta's prides and joys: the Basilica de San Francisco. A towering extravaganza of blood-red and ivory stucco work, this eyecatching church contains some beautiful colonial furniture and artwork, plus a surprising collection of European antiquities brought from Italy by the founding brothers. Nearby is an equally winsome convent, the Convento de San Bernardo, whose pristine white walls and ornately carved timber gates are another attraction.
Backing the convent to the north is one of the Andean foothills that added to the city's strategic position at the time of foundation in the 17th century: like the convent it is named after Saint Bernard, the Cerro San Bernardo. You will find yourself wanting to reach the top of this lofty mount to enjoy the fabulous views of the city and its mouthwatering environs . The easiest (and most enjoyable) way to ascend is by the teleferico (cable car), which whisks you up in bubble-like gondolas in no time. You could also get down by a zigzagging path, which would take you to yet another museum, the Museo Arqueologico with its collection of archeological and anthropological finds. It nestles in one of Salta's most desirable barrios, Tres Cerritos, where you can find a couple of the finest accommodations in town.
Getting out of the city is well worth it – nearby San Lorenzo nestles in a verdant valley to the west and is a fabulous place to base yourself, indulging in horse riding and explorations of the dense forest, a birdwatchers' paradise. To the southwest you can access the Calchaqui valleys, where Cafayate and Cachi are the main hubs. These oasis-dotted vales, hemmed in by steep rugged mountain ranges, have long been home to some of the country's best vineyards, and bustling Cafayate is one of the wine centers in the land. Several resorts and some excellent other lodgings will cater for every whim. Cachi meanwhile is a picturesque Andean village, lurking in the lee of Andean peaks that are snow-capped for most of the year. In March the surrounding fields are a riot of color, as paprika farmers lay out their peppers (pimentones) to dry in the sun.
Farther north you can venture into the Andean heights of the altiplano (high altitude plateau, often called "puna", the Incan name), in the neighboring province of Jujuy. There the major highlight is the multicolored Quebrada de Humahuaca, a deep sloping gorge, punctuated by Andean villages and colonial churches. If you prefer your landscapes to be green and lush rather than arid and mineral, head for the national parks of Calilegua and El Rey, where bushy cloud forests bristle with native flora and fauna, including countless species of birds.
Above all take your time when travelling around the northwest. Sometimes the roads are narrow and winding, surfaced with gravel rather than tarmac. Distances are deceptive, especially if you are in the mountains, where steep slopes and low oxygen levels can take their toll on your resistance and that of your vehicles. Best of all hire a local guide and let yourself be steered by experts around one of the most magical parts of Argentina, with its strong traditions and proud history, its myriad landscapes and stunning wildlife.