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    GEOLOGICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF THE SWISS ALPS



    Creation of the Swiss Alps



    The European Alps were formed as a result of the shifting of the earth's tectonic plates of Europe-Asia and Africa which moved northward about 100 million years ago. The crushing pressure with which the two continental plates met, as well as the rising sea floor, created these dramatically high and jagged alpine peaks. Occasionally along the fault line, there are small earthquakes in the Swiss Alps that can be felt even in the larger cities today.



    Further shaping of the rugged mountains and U-shaped valleys and numerous lakes was due to the erosion during glacial periods. 18'000 years ago all of Switzerland including the plateau, was glacier-covered. The glaciers have been receding since and today some very spectacular ones are remaining in the high Alps. But the erosion from weather and glacier melting continues with sometimes dramatic changes even within our lifetimes. Nevertheless, 44% of all Alpine glaciated areas in the European Alps are in Switzerland, the largest being Aletsch Glacier high up next to the Jungfraujoch in the Lauterbrunnen Valley.



    Due to a primarily east-west orientation the rivers on the North side of the Swiss Alps flow into the Mediterranean, and The North Sea and the Black and include the Rhone, Rhine, and Inn rivers. The rivers such as the Po and Ticino on South side of the Swiss Alps flow into the Adriatic Sea.



    Diversity in the Swiss Alps



    There is a distinct climatic difference between the North side of the Alps and the South which is completely isolated from the rest of the country and which has less precipitation and more sunny days creating desirable areas in which to live and to visit such as Italian-speaking Lugarno and Locarno in the Lakes region bordering Italy. The most Eastern part of the Swiss Alps in the Grison region, bordering Austria, (Romansch speaking) is also very different with unpredictable weather as it very rugged terrain.



    In the most western part of the Swiss Alps, there are two distinct alpine parallel ranges with a valley running between them until it gets narrower and narrower. This valley bordered by dramatic Alps on both sides, one of which is the Matterhorn, is the Canton of Wallis (Valais in French) which is mostly bilingual with French spoken in the South and Swiss German spoken in the North. This flat valley is used now as the main train route between Switzerland and Italy which goes through the Alps in a mountain tunnel at Brig. The highway goes through the Alps at the Simplon Pass nearby (one of several alpine passes). These are just a few examples of how the Swiss have been dealing with these majestic peaks and dramatic valleys and how their lives have been shaped in terms of language and transportation. However, there is also the Swiss Alpine influence on culture, economy, politics and religion.



    SWISS HISTORY AND THE IMPACT OF THE SWISS ALPS



    Prehistory



    The first evidence of human occupation in the country of Switzerland goes back to 450'000 B.C. Archeological evidences show that humans and animals survived the Ice Ages in Switzerland. At the end of the last Ice Age about 10'000 years ago the climate warmed and the lower Alps became covered with forests. People on the plateau turned to agriculture but even today the land is cultivated up the steep sides of the pre-Alps.



    Most agree that Neanderthal populations inhabited what would become Switzerland between 20'000 and 4'000 B.C. Later the Cro-Magnon people evolved and they cut trails through the Swiss Alps and developed trade with the present day Italy. Tribes of Celtic people arrived in the Alps from Southern Germany in 800 B.C. and were called Helvetians which eventually determined the name of the Swiss territory Helvetia which still exists (in Latin CH stands for Confoederatio Helvetica).



    The Roman Period



    The Celts were followed by the Romans and Julius Caesar's army in 58 B.C. who was seeking strategic routes through the Alps. Therefore for military purposes, the first real international roads across the Alps were clearly developed by the Romans. The Great St. Bernard Pass going into Italy near Aosta was called Mons Jovis, (Mount Jupiter) by the Romans. The two populations mixed and lived under the rule of the Roman Empire in Switzerland until 400 A.D. when the Germanic Alemannians invaded. The Roman armies retreated over the Alps. However, the Alemannians were unable to control the People in the Eastern part of the Alps called Rhaetia in Latin because they were so isolated by the steep and jagged Alps. They remained free which is why today they still speak their ancient language of Romansch.



    The Middle Ages



    The western region was settled by Burgundians who chose to speak Latin that they learned from the Romans. The southern region separated by the Alps also spoke Latin. In the 9th century The Kingdom of Burgandy was established in the western part of Switzerland which included the Savoy region of France. In the meantime, on the other side of the Swiss Alps the Austrian Habsburg family took over the Swiss people in order to benefit from the alpine passes, St. Gotthard in particular, for logistical reasons. When the Habsburg emperor died so did some of his power. Some alpine valleys located just north of the St. Gotthard Pass including Schwyz, Unterwalden and Uri formed the Swiss Confederation which was ratified August 1, 1291. Even though the rest of alpine-divided Switzerland had not been able to organize yet to be a part of it, this is the date which is considered the National Holiday celebrated today in Switzerland.



    The Old Swiss Confederacy



    Eight more cantons were integrated between 1332 and 1353 A.D. which protected more of the Swiss people against the Savoy and Burgundy powers. The Swiss alpine passes were crucial in the Middle Ages in Europe for trade, politics and pilgrims traveling to and from Rome and the Swiss wanted to retain their rights to these Alps. The roads through the Alps at this time were traveled at first by mules then stagecoaches but all travelers were always subjected to dangerous conditions including possible avalanches, thunderstorms and falling rock. The Swiss people decided to stop trying to expand their confederation and protect what they had. Losing ground against the French and Venetians who also wanted control of the alpine passes, the Swiss Confederation declared itself neutral in 1515 and was able to negotiate a treaty with France.



    The Reformation and Counter Reformation



    It was just after this declaration of Swiss neutrality that some Catholic church members started their resistance, as was the case throughout Europe. The Swiss Reformation began in 1550 with Protestants and Catholics at war. It was not until 1712 that the Treaty of Aarau was drawn up to guarantee freedom of religion in the Swiss Confederation. It was the victory of the Protestants that resulted in some cathedrals in Switzerland ending up completely bare of ornamentation which still exists today. In the Swiss Alps versus the plateau below, there is more of an inclination toward Catholicism.



    The Old Regime



    The Swiss historical period from 1600 – 1798 called Ancien Regime, was characterized by political chaos, religious upheaval, aristocratic ruling classes and separation from the Holy Roman Empire. It was also a time of Industrial Revolution and the Age of Enlightenment with such famous authors as Rousseau, Voltaire and Edward Gibbon and many others who lived in Switzerland questioning the status quo. Most of these large movements were happening in the Swiss cities but there was another way of life in the Alps where people remained isolated with their cattle and small farms where they made their cheese specialties. Furthermore, the Swiss Alps had become an attraction by poets, scientists, and artists finding inspiration.



    It was also during this time that the United States declared independence from Great Britain and the French people declared revolution against the crown in order to establish the rights of the citizens.


    The Napoleonic Invasion



    The impact of the French Revolution did not by pass by the Swiss Confederation. In fact, some of the Swiss peasants from the alpine regions demanded equal rights, freedom from landholders and revolted against taxes. Although they were supported by the French, it soon became clear that Switzerland's neutrality was being challenged and the French army led by Napoleon invaded from the west and was keenly interested in securing the Alpine passes for their strategic value for a route Paris to Milan as well as their protection during battles with Austria and Russia in Switzerland. Unable to get the Swiss to cooperate with his hold on the Alpine passes Napoleon withdrew his troops in 1803.



    The Swiss Constitution of 1848



    Six more cantons joined the Swiss confederation but it was loosely held together and battles ensued, especially after a potato famine that broke out over all of Europe. General Dufour, a protestant, won the religious wars and a constitution in 1848 unified the cantons into a federal democracy, the oldest one in the world after the United States and the only one that had direct democracy where all parliamentary bills had to pass by popular vote. The principles of this constitution are still in effect.



    The Swiss Industrial Revolution



    Industrialization was in full swing in Switzerland from 1750 – 1900. Textiles, chocolate, chemical factors, and machinery were being produced successfully. A new modern alpine crossing road that usable for wagons in Europe was opened in 1805 at the Simplon Pass. Artisans protested against factories and their labor practices and masses of Swiss people fell into poverty. Labor law reforms and continued industrial activity stabilized the economy. The first steamboat in Switzerland was floating in 1818, the first Swiss railway line was built, and the first asphalt road was built in the Alps.



    The Beginnings of Alpine Tourism



    Tourism interest in the Swiss Alps was beginning with the first ascents of the main alpine peak challenges for climbers in the Alps. The Jungfrau had been conquered in 1811, Piz Bernina in 1850, Monte Rose in 1855, Matterhorn in 1856, Dom in 1858, and Weisshorn in 1861. Many of the first alpinists were British, such as Edward Whymper, who opened up the beginnings of international tourists into Switzerland. By 1863 Thomas Cook was organizing all inclusive tours to Switzerland which was the beginning of mass tourism in the 19th century. The Belle Epoque Hotels and other tourist facilities were being constructed in the high Alps as well as cogwheel train systems and funiculars to get the tourists up there.



    The Swiss Alpine Club was established in 1863 which constructed mountain huts and played a strong role in conservation of the Alps so as not to see them spoiled.



    A major achievement for the Swiss was the opening of the St. Gotthard tunnel in 1882, dug right through the Alps for stagecoaches to pass through to the Italian region of the country and Italy. This was followed with first alpine railway line from Basel to St. Gotthard to Bellizona and then Milan, Italy. Next was the opening of the longest railway tunnel in the Alps (until the end of the 20th century) which was the Simplon tunnel (23.3 miles through the mountains). Other amazing transportation accomplishments continued during this time in the Alps making it accessible to visitors of all types. The Jungfrau Railway was opened in 1912 which has the highest railway station in Europe (11.342 ft.).



    The first hotel school in the world, L'Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne was established in 1893 in order to professionally train personnel in providing the finest of service and culinary arts in the Swiss alpine tourism establishments.



    The War Years



    World War I brought an end to the good times in Switzerland. Although their neutrality was somewhat protected by their Alps and their alpine expertise, there was tension within the population with sympathies due to linguistic ties to either Germany or France. This was followed by an economic crisis throughout Europe. Difficult times were still ahead with World War II.



    Swiss Prosperity and Alpine Tourism


    The post World War II years were prosperous with political stability, economic progress and social security for Swiss citizens.



    Tourism was flourishing and many new areas of the Swiss Alps were made accessible and groomed to please the visitors from all over the world. Tight controls were established by the alpine villages regarding construction to protect the Alps and the WWF environmental watchdogs established their international head quarters on Lake Geneva.



    Today, the Swiss Alps offers 14'291 miles of well-maintained trails in the mountainous areas to attract all levels of hikers. The cable cars and other trams run all year to enable visitors to enjoy the Swiss Alps from up high. The many peaks over 13'000 also attract some serious alpinists from all over the world. There are over 200 ski resorts in the Swiss Alps for all levels of skiers and enthusiasts of all kinds of winter and summer sports.



    -Sonja Holverson, Nileguide Local Expert

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