Off the Gringo Trail
Description:
Peru has a well established tourist trail which starts and ends in Lima and the capital city has a tourist trail of its own, with most visitors sticking to a small number of very popular spots. Yet for a city stretching over 2,600 square kilometers and home to 8 million people, it's a safe bet that there's plenty more to see and do here and this guide offers a few examples. The first trick is to keep clear ofMiraflores. Sure this busy shopping and commercial district feels familiar and safe, but for a taste of the real Lima, you'll need to venture further afield. The good news is that the city's 'combi' buses will get you almost anywhere, and for next to nothing. Why not grab the first passing bus and see where it takes you? Taxis are reasonably cheap and you can negotiate any fare with the driver before getting in. If you're not sure what a reasonable price might be, just ask in a hotel or bar - you'll find that people are happy to help. Some of the districts that have plenty to offer but that are less visited than the main touristhotspots are Chorillos, Surco, San Isidiro and areas of Central Lima. Barranco, popular for visitors can still offer the occasional unusual treat that you wouldn't expect to find, so explore the backstreets and see what you find. Neighbourhoods further afield than these districts don't see many tourists at all and may be considered unsafe for first time visitors. Keep your wits about you and don't walk the streets alone at night. By far the best way to uncover Lima's hidden side is to brush off those Spanish skills and get chatting with the locals. You'll find they're friendly and eager to offer advice on the hidden gems that Lima has to offer.
Author: Matthew Barker
Day 1 - Lima
Begin your tour of Lima's hidden side with a lazy morning in Barranco. Although this is a popular area for locals and visitors alike, it's maze-like streets and fantastic 19th/early 20th century Republican architecture will throw up countless secrets. Explore the artist workshops tucked away in the leafy back streets, take a stroll around the SanFranscisco church and stumble upon the neighborhood market where you can sit down with the locals and fill up on a cheap lunch. After lunch head to Pedrode Osma museum for a glimpse of Lima's alternative art scene where anything goes and the only limitation is your own imagination! Catch the afternoon sun on themalecon and follow it up through some beautiful residential neighborhoods to the edge of Miraflores where you will find Dove Vai, a delightful cafe where you can relax and get to know some of the regulars.
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Barranco
Costa central de Lima
Lima, Peru
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Avenida Pedro de Osma 423
\ Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 467 0063 / +51 1 467 0141
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Avenida Arenales 1256
LM 14 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 471 0117
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Avenida Bolívar 1515
Lima 21 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 461 1312 , 461 1835
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Avenida Gregorio Escobedo 803
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 261 3983
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Diagonal 228
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1241 8763
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366 Barranco
Barranco
Lima, PE
Phone:
51 1 477 5021
Day 2 - Lima
Head further afield on day 2 and grab a combi bus to China Town (buses heading north along Arequipa towards Central Lima). Peru has a large Chinese community, their most obvious legacy being the huge number of excellent Chinese restaurants (Chifas) dotted about the city. Many Chinese settled in this neighbourhood and this is where you'll find the most obvious cultural landmarks, including the impressive Chinese arch. Stop for lunch atWa Lok, one of the best Chifas in town before catching a bus up the enormous hill that dominates downtown Lima, Cerro San Cristobal. From this spot you'll get the best view of Lima and the surrounding areas. Be sure to go up and down by bus or taxi though, as the surrounding neighbourhoods are not safe for visitors. Once back at ground level you can stop for dinner in Central Lima, or else hop onto a bus back toBarranco and eat in one of the many neighbourhood restaurants.
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Calle Paruro
LM 01 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 574 8000
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Jirón Paruro 864
Barrio Chino
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 427 2656
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Near the Rimac River
Lima 1 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 315 1300
Day 3 - Lima
From the seafront at Barranco the huge stretch of city to your left is the historic suburb of Chorrillos. This is a huge district and despite having much to offer, does not receive as many visitors as its neighboring barrios further north. Most buses heading south read Chorriolls, hope on board and head into the district. You'll be able to spot the remaining original architecture that survived the conflict with Chile at the end of the 19th century as well as explore the shopping areas and the beaches which are very popular among the locals. Stop for lunch at Sonia, a real hidden gem that offers some of the best seafood in town. Catch the afternoon sun on the beach but be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen, even on an overcast day.
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Costa de Lima
Lima 9 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 444 3027
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Jr. Agustín Lozano 173
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 467 3788
Day 4 - Lima
Round off your trip to Lima with a spot of culture and begin by hopping on a bus heading north up Arequipa to the flashy financial district of SanIsidiro . This district is well known for its parks and green areas and will offer some welcome respite from Lima's constant buzz and high pressure activity. From here, head east to theMuseo de la Nacion, which is Lima's preeminent exhibit of Peruvian life, including pre-Colombian civilizations. The museum, which is housed in an oppressive former military government building, also has a powerful photography exhibit documenting the suffering and hardships during the conflict with Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path terrorist group). Stop for lunch of mouthwatering ceviche in Bahia Azul before heading to the Museo Nacional de Antropología for a rich history of Inca and pre-Inca pottery and textile finds. On your way back south stop for dinner at Señorío de Sulco , where a well crafted menu recreates all of Peru's different ethnic legacies with typical dishes from the coast, sierra and jungle. Finish your trip in style with a drink in the typically localJuanitos followed by a night on the tiles at El Dragon, where Barranco's hip crowd gathers on a nightly basis.
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San Isidro
Costa central de Lima
Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 432 3559
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Av. Javier Prado Este 2465
San Borja
LM 41 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 476 9875
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Calle Isaac Albéniz 245
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 475 1880
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Plaza Bolívar s/n
Lima 21 Lima, Peru
Phone:
+51 1 463 5070
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1470 Malecon Cisneros
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 441 0183
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Grau 274
Lima 4 Lima, Peru
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Nicolás de Piérola 168
(Precipice)
Lima, Peru
Phone:
51 1 477 5420