8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA
NileGuide Expert Says:
2 Starred Michelin RestaurantAddress:
Phone:
+852 2537 8859Description:
Chef Umberto Bombana enjoys legendary status in Hong Kong due to his long reign at the now defunct Toscana (what used to be the Ritz Carlton). At Otto e Mezzo Bombana, it is much like a character from Fellini's 8 1/2, from which the restaurant derives its florid name. It is best not to come with expectations of culinary perfection.The fare purveyed falls firmly into the high-end Italian category but perhaps lacks a certain originality. On offer are the all the familiar classics: foie gras and pear, short rib and tenderloin duo, angel hair with seafood. These are all amply executed, yet none are lifted to the truly sublime, and some dishes are excessively salty and some very sweet.
The burrata ravioli is an exception, with the freshness of the ingredients and the creaminess of the cheese creating some enjoyable gustatory synergies. Also of note, surprisingly, is the amuse bouche of mozzarella foam and tomato. Of course, the restaurant is particularly popular during white truffle season and Bombana's touch with the truffle dishes shows that he can still create some masterful meals.
Full marks for this modern, comfortable interior distinguished by a faceted mirror ceiling, slick lights and lace panels. The well-planned dining room is ameliorated by a full-height window that affords a simple but strangely appealing view of the 1960s tinted glass and anodized aluminium structure that is St George's Building, and the single tree that stands in front of it.
