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Whether at a simple coffee shop with frenzied waitresses or a subdued al fresco table with views of the crashing surf and palm trees, a Big Island brunch is more than just chatter about plans to see dolphins or visit volcanoes. It’s thick coconut syrup on macadamia nut waffles, freshly brewed 100 percent Kona coffee (not the blend) served lavishly and generously. Sweet lilikoi butter on warm popovers, Portuguese Sweet Bread French Toast and POG, a blend of passion fruit, orange and guava juice that is an island classic.