Overview Hotels Things to Do Restaurants Nightlife Itineraries Facts Explore Travel

Off the beaten path Cairo: markets and monuments not even the locals know

Description:

Cairo must be one of the most fascinating cities in the world: an exotic, chaotic assault on the senses, steeped in thousands of years of history.

Everybody knows about the Pyramids, the Egyptian Museum, and Khan al-Khalili, but there is so much more on offer. So much, in fact, that no single individual could know about all of the gems tucked away in Cairo’s winding maze of alleyways. This is especially true of Islamic Cairo, easily the most enthralling, and confusing, area in the whole of the city.

This guide will take you well off the beaten path (though it will pass through some more familiar areas), into markets where most locals will never venture, and past monuments long forgotten by the majority of people.

The best way to explore the hidden nooks and crannies of Cairo is to walk, walk, and walk some more. Getting lost is mandatory. Wander down alleyways, enter interesting-looking buildings, and talk to the locals. This guide will provide you with suggestions for getting off the beaten track, but ultimately, you must let serendipity be your guide.

Note it goes without saying that you will be venturing in to traditional areas, so conservative clothing is a must! Ideally, you will also need to find a map of Cairo.

user rating

Author: Nicholas Rowlands

Day 1 - Cairo

You are going to walk from Downtown, all the way to the Khan al-Khalili area, so make sure you get an early start, have sufficient sun protection, and carry a bottle of water.

Start in Downtown Cairo and walk to Midan al-‘Ataba. There are loads of ways to do this, but here are a few possible routes.

You can walk from Midan Tahrir up Talaat Harb street. Go straight over Midan Talaat Harb (you will see the Yacoubian building to your right – setting for the modern novel and film of the same name) and keep going until you see ‘Adli street on your right. Walk down ‘Adli until you meet Midan al-Ubra. You will pass one of Cairo’s few remaining synagogues: an imposing, gun-metal grey brick structure that manages to look both futuristic and gothic at the same time. Cross over Midan al-Ubra and walk under the overpass. Turn right at the Central Post Office, and you are in Midan al-‘Ataba – check out the old-school fire engines parked here!

Alternatively, start in Midan Tahrir and walk east along Tahrir street until you get to Midan al-Gumhuriya and ‘Abdin Palace. Keep an eye out along the way for al-Horeya on the left hand side: you might want to grab a beer there later! Turn left on to al-Gumhuriya street and keep walking straight until you meet Midan al-Ubra, or immediately leave al-Gumhuriya to the right and take ‘Abd al-‘Aziz street to Midan al-‘Ataba. ‘Abd al-‘Aziz street is a manic street where lots of cut-price electronics are sold.

Pause for a second in Midan al-‘Ataba: ‘Ataba is one of the most exciting areas of Cairo – a series of interlinked markets where if you can name it, you can buy it, provided you can find it! It’s worth exploring the area: see if you can find the Paper Market on al-Geish Street (which sells not only paper, but also dyed leather and art materials). If you are hungry, there are plenty of street food stalls in the area selling fuul, falafel and shwarma – pick somewhere that is doing a brisk trade.

You are now going to take al-Muski street all the way to Khan al-Khalili. You’ll probably have to ask for directions to find the street, but that’s fine: it’s a famous street, and the locals will be more than willing to help. Al-Muski is a lively local market that starts out selling fireworks and household objects, and gradually transitions in to clothing and accessories, before phasing in to more touristy stuff towards the north of the street as you get closer to Khan al-Khalili.

Spend some time exploring the Khan: whilst most certainly on the beaten path, it’s a unique experience, and the banter with the vendors is second to none. Grab a Turkish coffee and a shisha pipe in al-Fishawi coffee shop, and if you haven’t eaten yet, take your lunch in Farahat or at the Egyptian Pancake House (again, it’s hardly unknown, but does good quality traditional feteers nonetheless).

Spend the afternoon exploring the area south of al-Azhar Mosque. Start by walking behind the mosque and checking out the Wikalet al-Ghouri: a beautifully restored medieval merchants’ hostel, that also hosts a free Sufi dancing show on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday evenings at 8 pm (get there early!) if you are up for it.

There is also an interesting fruit and veg market here, backing on to a maze of cramped alleys where dusty stalls sell even dustier books, and some craftsmen making mother of pearl boxes can be found. Don’t get lost, though, because you want to head back past the mosque, and turn left on to al-Mu’izz li-Din-Allah street to head south.

At the start of the street is the rest of the al-Ghouri complex – a restored mosque and madrassa, both of which can be visited. Keep going down the street, which used to be known as Cairo’s silk market. In the alleys to the right you will still find lots of carpet sellers, and even a small Tarboosh (Fez) souq.

This busy local market is a far cry from Khan al-Khalili, and is given over mainly to cheap clothes and household goods. Note all the bags of raw cotton dotting the street. Just before you reach Bab Zwayla (the southern medieval gate) you will see the ornamental Sabil (water fountain) of Mohamed Ali on the left.

You may want to turn right immediately after the gate, and walk the half a km or so to the Museum of Islamic Art. Make sure you double back and continue heading south, though, because you are about to enter Khyamiyya Street, or the Street of the Tentmakers. This is a fascinating covered market where craftsmen still make the traditional appliqué pavilions that are unique to Egypt. Although increasingly touristy, prices here are much lower than in the Khan, and the vendors are more than happy to chat about their work.

Keep going down the street, and it morphs into this incredible local food market: brightly coloured piles of fruits and vegetables fighting for space with buckets of offal, live chickens and rabbits. Make sure you keep your wits about you on this street: as crowded as it is, you still need to dodge the wheelbarrows, bikes, and even the occasional truck!

The market eventually spills out in to Mohamed ‘Ali street, famous for its musical instruments. If you turn right on to Mohamed ‘Ali street, you can walk up to Midan al-Khalq (and a second chance to visit the Museum of Islamic Art) and then head west via Sami al-Barudi street to get back to Downtown. Alternatively, you could just jump a taxi: you’ve certainly earned it!

In the evening, head down to Garden City. Just south of Downtown, Garden City is a pleasant maze of tranquil, tree-lined streets, and home to lots of government buildings and embassies. Take dinner either in Taboula (a quality Lebanese restaurant on Latin America street), or in Abu Shakra on Qasr al-Aini.

You are a short walk away from Makan. Situated next to Saad Zaghloul metro station, this centre is devoted to preserving traditional Egyptian culture and arts, especially music. Every Wednesday at 9.00 pm the mixed male and female Mazaher ensemble perform the Zar: a traditional type of African and Middle Eastern music used in healing rituals. Make the most of the opportunity to witness, and help support, this endangered tradition.

1