Downtown Buenos Aires, the Microcentro, bustles during work hours and empties out when the businessmen head home - at least, it used to. These days, in-the-know locals and foreigners flock to an increasing number of superb happy hour specials at chic wine bars and funky dives. Outside of the lovely Plaza de Mayo, the streets are narrow and crowded but host some surprisingly tasty eateries and important cultural and historical sites. Accommodations range from corporate-friendly chain hotels to intimate, independent boutique hotels.